Hurricane rain does not fall straight down. It drives sideways at 100+ mph, forcing water past window seals. The sill pan is your last line of defense, catching infiltrated water and draining it back outside before it rots your wall cavity.
Follow these steps to ensure your sill pan actually protects the wall cavity from wind-driven rain infiltration.
Clean the rough sill surface. Remove any debris, nails, or irregularities. The surface must be flat and level side-to-side. If needed, shim to create the 6-10 degree outward slope before installing the pan.
Apply flexible flashing tape or liquid membrane up the back of the rough opening at least 6 inches. This creates the back dam that prevents water from reaching the interior wall. Overlap with the sill pan material.
Install the formed sill pan with end dams at least 1.5 inches high. The pan must extend past the exterior wall face by 1/2 inch minimum. Seal all corners completely - this is where most leaks occur.
Apply compatible sealant at all pan joints and where the pan meets the rough opening. Before installing the window, flood test the pan by pouring water into it. Water must drain to exterior only - no leaks to interior.
Choose the right material for your application and budget. All must be compatible with your window system.
Pre-formed aluminum or galvanized steel pans with integrated end dams. Most durable option. Requires proper sealant at window frame interface.
Plastic pans with molded end dams. Lightweight, corrosion-resistant. Some have built-in weep channels. Check UV stability for exposed installations.
Self-adhered flexible PVC or butyl membrane formed into pan shape with tape end dams. Conforms to irregular openings. Requires careful corner work.
Common questions about sill pan requirements in Miami-Dade hurricane zones
Know exactly what wind pressures your windows must resist. Complete specifications for Miami-Dade permit approval.
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